Alcohol-assisted dyeing processes: a chemical substitution study

Dyeing processes of various yarns (wool, cotton, polyester, nylon 6 and acrylic) were studied with the aim to substitute some auxiliary agents with ethanol at low concentration. The results observed in isothermal dyeing showed a favorable effect of alcohol addition, at about 1–3% v/v, on the dye uptake, with some differences depending on fiber nature and dye class. This effect was correlated with contact angle measurements of water-ethanol solutions on the mentioned yarns, which confirmed a lower surface tension in the same concentration range. Then, laboratory tests with dye triads at programmed temperature were carried out comparing the results of standard dyeing recipes with those obtained by replacing wetting, retardant and leveling agents with ethanol. Good color imitations were generally shown with respect to standard processes. A wetting effect of ethanol was shown for all the tested yarns and dye classes, while in wool dyeing with acid, pre-metallized and reactive dyes, ethanol was suitable to replace also leveling and retarding agents. Light and wash fastnesses were also compared. Finally the environmental benefits arising from chemical substitution of auxiliary agents with ethanol were highlighted and the cost of alcohol introduction was compared with the cost saving of auxiliary substitution. A positive economic balance was obtained.