Paramètres statistiques de la houle au large de la côte sud-aquitaine

Statistical parameters of waves on the south Aquitaine coast have been determined by comparison of two datasets: in situ local measurements on a short duration and numerical simulation outputs from the WAVEWATCH III model over a period of 6 years and 9 months. Data and simulation results are well correlated in the case of the significant wave height, whereas in the case of the peak periods ( T p ) and directions ( D p ) , this correlation is lower. This is due respectively to the intrinsic unstable nature of T p and the narrow distribution of D p . An adjustment of simulation data on measurement is then used to give an evaluation of the wave statistics for the southern fraction of the French Atlantic coast. Eventually, the relationships between the three statistical variables ( H s , T p , D p ) are analysed in order to determine representative sea states. The classification obtained shows the predominance of swell regimes, distributed on a very narrow angular sector over wind sea regimes. To cite this article: S. Abadie et al., C. R. Geoscience 337 (2005).