Measuring directional waves in coastal waters using an upward looking acoustic Doppler profiler

Acoustic Doppler profilers are routinely used to map currents in a wide variety of applications. However, most existing systems are not capable of providing the high temporal and spatial resolution velocity measurements required for directional wave statistics, and as needed for coastal studies, boundary-layer dynamics, sediment transport, and wave research. The authors describe an ADN-based wave sensing system capable of providing directional wave data simultaneously with the velocity profiles. Results of field tests demonstrate that the ADP wave data an consistent with independent measurements