Quantitative determination of some volatile suspected allergens in cosmetic creams spread on skin by direct contact sorptive tape extraction–gas chromatography–mass spectrometry

This study describes a method based on direct contact sorptive tape extraction followed by on-line thermal desorption gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (DC-STE–GC–MS) to detect and quantify a group of suspected volatile allergens on the European Union (E.U.) list and a related compound on the skin (the stratum corneum) of volunteers treated with a cream of known composition fortified with the reference allergens. The following compounds were tested: citronellol, Z-citral (neral), geraniol, cinnamaldehyde, anisyl alcohol, cinnamyl alcohol, eugenol, methyleugenol, coumarin, isoeugenol, α-isomethylionone, 2-(4-tert-butylbenzyl)propionaldehyde (lilial), α-amylcinnamaldehyde, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde. Sorptive tape extraction (STE) is a sorption-based sampling technique in which a flexible polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) tape is used to recover analytes by direct contact with the surface of a solid matrix or from the headspace in equilibrium with it. The reliability of the method was confirmed by: (i) allergen recoveries varying from 52.3% for lilial to 95.7% for neral, (ii) linearity in the range 10–150 ppm, with regression coefficient R2 always above 0.97, (iii) repeatability of each analyte, RSD% never exceeding 10%, (iv) intermediate precision, always below 15%, and (v) LOD and LOQ in the ppb range, therefore fully compatible with E.U. prescriptions (ppm). Other parameters such as substantivity analyte, approximate permeation through skin and influence of different nature of stratum corneum on recovery were also investigated. The method was also successfully applied to five commercially available creams declared to contain some of the allergens in question spread on the skin of the same volunteers.