Identification of natural dyes in archeological Coptic textiles by liquid chromatography with diode array detection

Reversed-phase HPLC with diode-array UV–Vis spectrophotometric detection has been used for identification of natural dyes in extracts from wool and silk fibres from archeological textiles. The examined objects originate from 4th to 12th Century Egypt and belong to the collection of Early Christian Art of the National Museum in Warsaw. Extraction from fibres was carried out with HCl solution containing ethanol or with warm pyridine. As the main individual chemical components of natural dyes, anthraquinone, indigoid and flavonoid dyes including alizarin, purpurin, luteolin, apigenin, carminic acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, laccaic acids A and B and indigotin were found. For pyridine extracts another mobile phase with an optimized gradient of organic modifier concentration was used. With such an eluent the appearance of double peaks for indigotin and indirubin was eliminated. For acidic extraction of dyes from fibres, ethanol was used. Due to its higher boiling point than methanol it evaporates slower from the extraction solution enabling a more efficient extraction of dyes.