Prediction of sand transport rates by waves and currents in the coastal zone

The predictions of a sand transport research model and Bijkerʹs (J. Waterways, Harbours Coastal Eng. Div. ASCE 97 (WW4) (1971) 687) engineering model are compared with data obtained in wave-current conditions at three field sites. A key element in the present study is that the bed roughness at the three sites has been estimated from predictions of the sand ripple dimensions. The comparisons between suspended sand concentrations and transport rates show that a considerable amount of uncertainty (factor ±5 or more) arises when individual predictions are compared with the measurements. However, the overall bias in each set of comparisons is smaller than this, with overall agreement being within a factor of ±2 in most cases. While the results demonstrate that research models, adapted for field application, may be used to make practical sand transport computations with as much accuracy as engineering formulations, the true benefit of research models lies in the improved understanding of transport processes that they provide. This is illustrated with reference to the mechanism of grain size sorting caused by oblique incidence of waves on a current.