Beach profile evolution as an inverse problem

Beach evolution models are normally applied in a prognostic fashion, with parameters and boundary conditions estimated from previous experience or other forecasts. Here, we use observations of beach profiles to solve a beach profile evolution equation in an inverse manner to determine model parameters and source function. The data used to demonstrate the method are from Christchurch Bay in Dorset, UK. It was found that there is a significant contribution from diffusive processes to the morphodynamic evolution of the beach profiles and that the development and disappearance of near-shore coastal features such as upper beach berms and inter- and sub-tidal bars are well captured by the source function in the governing equation.