Abstract :
Better understanding and modeling of breaking waves are critical issues for
coastal engineering. This article concerns the plunging wave break with free surface over a
slope bottom considering unsteady, incompressible viscous
ow. The method solves the twodimensional
Navier-Stokes equations for conservation of momentum, continuity equation,
and full nonlinear kinematic free-surface equation for Newtonian
uids as the governing
equations in a vertical plane. A new mapping was developed to trace the deformed free
surface encountered during wave propagation by transferring the governing equations from
the physical domain to a computational domain. Also, a numerical scheme is developed
using nite element modeling technique to predict the plunging wave break. The Arbitrary
Lagrangian Eulerian (ALE) algorithm is employed in modeling wave propagation over
sloping beaches. In the conclusion, results are compared with the results of other researches.
