Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M® Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance

Purpose: We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MPs) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone3 (BENZ3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. Methods: An insilico modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVAPF). MBBT and blueberryloaded microparticles (MPMB+B) and MBBTloaded microparticles (MPMBBT) were prepared by spraydrying. OCT and BENZ3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MPMB+B and MPMBBT, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and in vitro SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Antioxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Results: Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. Invitro SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the invivo assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 μg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Conclusion: Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its antioxidant and antiaging properties.