Author/Authors :
Żerańska, Justyna Dr Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories - Dr Irena Eris Centre for Science and Research - Warsaw, Poland , Pasikowska, Monika Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials Chemistry - Medical University of Lodz, Poland , Szczepanik, Barbara Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials Chemistry - Medical University of Lodz, Poland , Mlosek, Krzysztof Life-Beauty – Private partner - Grodzisk Mazowiecki, Poland , Malinowska, Sylwia Life-Beauty – Private partner - Grodzisk Mazowiecki, Poland , Dębowska, Renata M Dr Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories - Dr Irena Eris Centre for Science and Research - Warsaw, Poland , Eris, Irena Dr Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories - Dr Irena Eris Centre for Science and Research - Warsaw, Poland
Abstract :
Introduction
Fibroblast growth factor 1 (FGF-1) is a powerful mitogen involved in the stimulation of DNA synthesis and the proliferation of a wide variety of cell types. Fibroblast growth factor 1 was genetically modified to improve its thermal stability and resistance to protease degradation without losing its biological activity.
Aim
To study the impact of Q40P/S47I/H93G rFGF-1 on skin cells, its penetration through the skin and the evaluation of the rFGF-1-cosmetic product properties.
Material and methods
In vitro studies included the examination of primary fibroblast and keratinocyte viability after the incubation with rFGF-1. The penetration abilities of rFGF-1 in various formulations and carrier systems were examined ex vivo by the Raman spectroscopy. In vivo studies – HF Ultrasound and 3D Imaging System – were used to evaluate the anti-aging properties of creams containing rFGF-1.
Results
In vitro studies demonstrated that rFGF-1 strongly enhanced the viability of the treated cells. The Raman Spectroscopy analysis indicated that rFGF-1 encapsulated in lipid spheres penetrate through the stratum corneum to the depth of 60 µm, and added to the o/w formulation – could penetrate to a depth of 90 µm. The results obtained from Primos revealed the reduction of the volume and the depth of the wrinkles. Changes in the skin structure in the analyzed areas were evaluated by HF Ultrasonography.
Conclusions
Recombinant FGF-1 strongly stimulated fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation. However, the transition of this protein through the SC required an appropriate carrier system – lipid spheres. All tests – in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo – have proved that rFGF-1 is a substance with a potentially wide spectrum of use.
Keywords :
HF ultrasonograph , Primos , keratinocytes , Raman spectroscopy