Ambient noise in the natural surf zone: wave-breaking frequencies

Ambient noise in the surf zone, in the frequency range 120 Hz to 5 kHz, was recorded using a broad-band hydrophone, located approximately 1 m above bottom and 1-2 m below the mean sea surface. The predominant source of this noise is breaking waves. Analysis of simultaneous land-based video observations of the sea surface in the region of the hydrophone, along with wave height data, reveals quantitative correlation between wave-breaking events and the hydrophone signal. In energetic surf, locally breaking waves appear as discrete events in the ambient noise spectra. Distant breaking events do not appear to be detected, as distinct events above the ambient background noise, by the hydrophone. The noise events associated with local breakers are characterized by an asymmetry in the time envelope: low frequencies (less than 500 Hz) are observed leading the breaking crest, followed by a broader range of frequencies peaking in intensity with the passage of the wave crest above the hydrophone, and then decreasing abruptly at all frequencies. Low frequencies are generally not observed trailing the breaking wave. The detection by the hydrophone of breaking waves in the immediate vicinity implies that ambient noise in heavy surf provides a means of studying breaking-wave statistics in the surf zone in situ: in particular, the frequency of occurrence of local breaking