Coastal application of a wave monitoring system based on a nautical radar

The operational wave and current monitoring system, WaMoS II, is presented. By analyzing microwave backscatter from the ocean surface, the system delivers the two-dimensional wave spectrum and the mean surface current velocity. All the important sea state parameters such as significant wave height, wave directions and wave periods are derived in real time. In this paper the first time sea state parameters obtained with WaMoS II in shallow water are presented. A spectral comparison between a Waverider buoy and WaMoS II are presented. In addition time series of the significant wave height, the peak frequency and the peak direction are compared. Both data sets show a good agreement