برساخت سينمايي زيبايي‌شناسي پوشاك زنان در گفتمان‌هاي ارزش‌گرايي، سازندگي و اصلاح‌طلبي

Construction of Women Dress Aesthetics in Iranian Movies by Valueism, Constructionism and Reformism Discourses

نوع و زيبايي‌شناسي پوشاك هر جامعه، ذيل فرهنگ آن قابل بازشناسي است زيرا فرهنگ، بخشي از ساختار هر جامعه است كه در پيوستگي با ساير اركان اجتماعي قرار دارد. زيبايي‌شناسي لباس به معني شناخت ويژگي‌ها و دلالت‌هاي زيباشناسانه پوشاك در يك جامعه، تحت‌تأثير عوامل فرهنگي اجتماعي است كه در برخي آثار هنري از جمله فيلم‌هاي سينمايي انعكاس يافته و قابل مطالعه است. سينما يكي از هنر-رسانه هايي است كه توانمندي بسياري در بازنمايي تحولات مختلف جامعه دارد. يكي از پديده‌هاي فرهنگي- اجتماعي هر جامعه، تغييرات در پوشش و پوشاك آن است كه به انحاء گوناگون در فيلم‌هاي سينمايي هر دوره، برساخته و بازنمايي مي‌شود. اين مقاله ضمن تحليل گفتماني سه دورۀ ارزش‌گرايي، سازندگي و اصلاح‌طلبي و تحليل 30 فيلم سينمايي، به اين سوال پاسخ مي‌دهد كه تاثيرگفتمان‌هاي گوناگون بر زيبايي‌شناسي پوشاك زنان چگونه در آثار سينمايي، بازتاب يافته است.

The type and aesthetics of dress in every society is identified by its culture because the culture is a part of the society structure which is integrated to other pillars of the society. The aesthetics of dress, meaning to realize aesthetic characteristics and implications of dress in a society, is affected and influenced by cultural and social factors which are reflected in artistic works including movies. Cinema as an art-media can represent different developments of society very accurately. One of the social-cultural phenomena of every society is the change of dress and clothing which is constructed and represented in movies in different ways. This paper by analyzing the dominant and competing discourses at the Valueism, Constructionism and Reformism eras (1979 -1998) in Iran and analyzing 30 movies released in those eras, responses to this question: how the effect of different discourses on the women dress aesthetics has been reflected in the movies? The mentioned movies have been selected by purposive method of sampling and have been studied in three levels: Description, Interpretation and analysis to find out the aesthetics of Iranian women dress represented and constructed in the movies by the filmmakers of three discourses: Valueism, Constructionism and Reformism Discourses.