بازتاب نمودهاي فرهنگي در نظام ساختاري و نقوش پوشاك مردان جامعه عشايري

Reflection of Cultural Manifestations in Structural System and Motifs on Men’s Apparel in Nomadic Society

پوشاك با توجه به جنبه حفاظتي‌اش يكي از اساسي‌ترين نياز‌هاي بشر محسوب مي‌گردد، اما علي رغم اين هدف مشترك در ميان جوامع گوناگون راهكار‌هاي مشترك در شكل‌دهي به آن صورت نگرفته است و نمي‌توان دو جامعه‌اي را يافت كه از اين منظر نظام مشابهي را پيروي نمايند. در اين ميان پوشاك عشايري به‌عنوان نمونه‌اي از هنر قومي، داراي نظام ساختاري و نقوش منحصر به فردي است كه پايداري خود را بعد از گذر ساليان متمادي حفظ نموده است و امكان مطالعه در لايه‌هاي پنهان آن را ميسر مي‌سازد. بنابراين شناسايي چگونگي بازتاب فرهنگ در نظام ساختاري، شكل و نقش پوشاك عشايري مساله اصلي تحقيق حاضر است. از اين رو با هدف شناسايي رابطه بين اعتقادهاي ديني- مذهبي با نظام ساختاري پوشاك و بازتاب مؤلفه‌هاي فرهنگي- تجسمي در قالب نقوش پوشاك، سوال اصلي مطرح شده اين بود كه فرهنگ چه نقشي در شكل‌دهي به ساختار، نقش و رنگ پوشاك عشايري دارد؟ در اين تحقيق از روش انسان شناسي كاركردگرا با هدفي كاربردي و ماهيت توصيفي-تحليلي استفاده شد و اطلاعات لازم از طريق منابع كتابخانه‌اي و روش ميداني با ابزار‌هاي اصلي فيش برداري و مشاهده مشاركتي كسب گرديد. تجزيه و تحليل يافته‌هاي پژوهش بر حسب رويكرد كيفي اتخاذ شده مبتني بر تحليل يافته‌هاي متني، تصويري و اسنادي است كه تحليل محتواي مربوط به سه بخش سرپوش، پاپوش و تن‌پوش مردان بختياري به‌عنوان نمونه مورد مطالعه از زواياي رنگ، شكل و نقش مورد مطالعه قرار گرفته است. نتايج حاصله نشان داد كه شكل‌گيري پوشاك مردان بختياري ريشه در اعتقاد‌هاي مذهبي و اسطوره‌اي آنها دارد و در ميان آنها نشانه‌هايي از آيين‌هاي مهرپرستي و و زرتشتي همچنان پابرجاست. در نهايت طراحي هماهنگ با شيوه زندگي عشايري، ارتباط نظام ساختاري پوشاك با عقايد مذهبي و جايگاه ماورايي آن از مهم‌ترين دلايل پايداري شكل و نقش پوشاك مردان بختياري است.

Although garment studies have been widely practiced as cultural phenomena, nomadic garment designs and in-depth studies have not been addressed. Nomadic apparel, as an example of ethnic art, is a cultural product which indicates how the structure, shape, and role of nomadic clothing are the main issues of the present study. Bakhtiari, as one of the largest nomadic tribes of Iran, preserves a life based on nature, observing which makes it is possible for researchers to have a deep and participatory understanding of the field of research. Therefore, in the present study, the main purpose of identifying cultural components in the form of Il Bakhtiari’s clothing was to address this issue by adopting a qualitative approach to cultural studies using a functional anthropological method. The main questions are: why clothing has remained stable in the nomadic community? an‎d also, what role does culture play in shaping the structure, role and color of the tribal garment? The study of culture is essential, and it is so important from the perspective of the garment study that it can serve as a mirror which reflects a whole view of human culture to provide a more comprehensive understanding of human lifestyles, and beliefs that are highly important to the nomads' dependence on the species. He reveals their clothes. Therefore, the study of Bakhtiari men's clothing also seems to have a central role in culture. The research method is qualitative and descriptive-analytical in nature and data collection is done by library and field research methods using participatory survey and observation tools. Therefore, textual analysis and presentation of tables to recognize the visual and structural components, roles and colors of garments, have been considered which were studied in three categories of head covering, foot covering and tone covering from both descriptive and thematic angles. The research population is tribal garments of the Bakhtiari tribes which are the examples in this research. The necessary information was gathered through library resources and field methods with the main tools of participatory observation and observation, and general sections of apparel, including the Bakhtiari men's apparel, cover and tunic are studied as examples in terms of the color and shape. The role was also analyzed. The findings of this study indicate that the clothing structure of the Bakhtiari men reflects the cultural manifestations of this ethnic group and is rooted in their religious and mythical beliefs, among which are the signs of secularism and Zoroastrianism. Consequently, in accordance with the nomadic lifestyle, the relationship between the structural system of the garment and religious beliefs as well as its transcendental status is one of the most important reasons for the stability of Bakhtiari men's clothing designs and motifs. The structural features of the Bakhtiari men's garments, due to their non-alignment, are a circular embodiment that is directly related to the dynamics of nomadic life and reflection, reflecting the constant movement and flow of life, and mediating the balance between the earth and the sky. Bakhtiari man in this clothing is a virtuous individual who is committed to preserving nature and the flow of life. Because of the visual characteristics of their garments, it became clear that this garment is sacred, and in a way, expresses the religious thinking and ideology of the Bakhtiari tribe. Given the choice of black and white and the interpretation of the black (down) and white (up) roles, this was clearly observed. The nominal parallels and motifs used are of a kind of harmony, so due to the important position of the mountain or the Chogha in the ancient religions, the position of the gods in this matter was not only a very important one in the religious life of ancient times, but also in the lives of the Bakhtiari tribes. It has been critically acclaimed and reflected on architecture, nature, funerals, and ultimately the role and name of clothing. Therefore, when the structural system of clothing originates from the outline of society and its culture, this continuity becomes so profound that, despite its hidden features and qualities, it still maintains its sustainability and finds cultural value and status. Slowly, the primacy of existence and the ethnicity or the ethnicity of the Bakhtiari person is based on their clothing.