كليدواژه :
نساجي قاجار , ناصرالد ين شاه , منسوجات كاربرد ي , هزارويك شب , نگاره پرد ازي هاي هزارويك شب صنيع الملك , طرح و نقش , صنيع الملك
چكيده فارسي :
هزارويك شب صنيع الملك، منبع تصويري مرد م نگار به حساب مي آيد كه با جستجو د ر آن مي توان ظرايف فرهنگي عصر ناصري را مورد مطالعه قرار د اد . د ر سوي د يگر، طرح و نقش منسوجات د ورۀ قاجار هستند كه د ر كاربرد ي جز تن پوش، كم تر محل بررسي بود ه اند . هد ف اين پژوهش، جستجو د ر خصايص طرح و نقش اين انواع با نظر به تصاوير هزارويك شب صنيع الملك است كه امكان گمانه زني د ربارۀ شيوه هاي توليد را نيز فراهم خواهد آورد . بد ين تقرير پرسش آن است: با نظر به تصاوير هزارويك شب صنيع الملك، طرح ها و نقوش منسوجات غيرملبوس د ر عصر ناصري چگونه و د ر چه قالبي تعريف مي شود ؟ با نظر به د ستاورد هاي مطالعات پيشين و به احتمال، طرح واگيره اي و نقش بته جقه د ر منسوجات كاربرد ي د ر زند گي روزمرۀ رواج بيشتري د اشته است. به رغم اين فرضيه، نتيجۀ مطالعه به شيوۀ توصيفي-تحليلي به مد عاي نمونه گيري طبقه بند ي احتمالي هجد ه تصوير از هزارويك شب صنيع الملك نشان مي د هد : د ر اين د وره، حد اقل پارچه هاي بد ون طرح، واگيره اي، قابي، محرمات، محرابي و ترنج د ار با نقوش گياهي طبيعت گرا و انتزاعي ازجمله بته جقه و اسليمي د ر تهيۀ منسوجات غيرجامگاني به كار مي آمد ه كه برخي با تكنيك هاي بافت هم چون د ارايي، طرح اند ازي شد ه اند و برخي د يگر با عمليات تكميلي هم چون چاپ، نقش گرفته اند . د ر اين بين، محرمات هم چون ترمه از پركاربرد ترين انواع بود ه و د ر تنوع وسيع نسبت به سايرين استعمال مي شد ه است.
چكيده لاتين :
Sani-al-Molk’s One thousand and One Nights is considered
an ethnographic source that can give the readers an insight
into the cultural delicacies of the era of Nasser al-Din Shah
Qajar. Yet, there is little research on the common nonclothing
textiles of the Qajar era. This study explores the
patterns and motifs of these textiles based on the illustrations
of One Thousand and One Nights, which certainly provide
clues as to how the textiles were made. With this in mind,
the question is: “Based on the illustrations of One Thousand
and One Nights, what patterns and motifs were used in the
non-clothing textiles of the Nasseri era? It is hypothesized
that the Vagirei (repeated in length and width) and Paisley
patterns were the most widely used patterns in the textiles of
the Early Nasseri Era. However, the results of a descriptiveanalytical
desk-based study conducted using the stratified
probability sampling method based on eighteen illustrations
of One Thousand and One Nights reveal that : non-clothing
and applied in household consumption textiles such as
curtains, furniture, cushions, underlays, quilts, tablecloths,
wall coverings, etc. were used in a variety of patterns and
motifs including the simple pattern and Vagirei, Ghabi
(frame-based), Moharramat (striped), Afshan (scattered
flowers), Mehrabi (praying cloth) and Toranjdar (Bergamot)
with natural and abstract plant-based motifs such as Paisley
and arabesque patterns during the early Nasseri era. Thus,
contrary to the first hypothesis, the patterns and motifs
used during this era had a broader range than the induced
patterns. Among the patterns, simple fabrics were used more
for curtains and furniture. However, the Vagirei pattern with
the plant-based design was also rarely used in these textiles
as well, but the Vagirei and Ghabi designs with natural and
abstract plant-based motifs (especially the Paisley) were
used more often in the production of bed covers. Simple
Ghabi patterns in checkered forms were also sometimes
used in bed-clothes wrappers. The illustrations show that
the Moharramat pattern was a common pattern during
the early Nasseri period. The Afshan pattern with small
flowers was rarely used on tablecloths, cushions and bed
covers. Regarding the Mehrabi patterns with the abstract
motif of cypress as well as the Toranjdar patterns with
arabesque motifs, they have been used on wall coverings
and curtains, types that are formally reminiscent of ikat and
Ghalamkar fabrics. The illustrations not only give us clues
as to patterns and motifs, but also convey the message that
the simple fabrics were something like velvet or satin, and
the Moharramat types were woven with the simplest textile
machines or the ikat technique were made of cotton and
silk depending on their use. Termeh fabrics used to make
bed covers had a woolen material and were of the ikat,
silk or cotton types. It seems that Mehrabi and Toranjdar
fabrics were also produced using the Ikat weaving method
or by additional operations such as printing and embroidery
on cotton fabrics. Finally, regardless of the material and
production method, Moharramat types such as Termeh
were the most widely used types of all.
