كليدواژه :
رولان بارت , گفتمان فرهنگي , پساساختگرا , نظام پوشاك , چند‌معنايي
چكيده فارسي :
پوشاك يكي از ضروريات بشر بوده و با حضور مادي و فكري خود به?عنوان نوعي ابزار ارتباطي قوي عمل مي‌كند. نظام پوشاك، با توسعه جوامع، شكل‌گيري عقايد، فعاليت‌هاي اجتماعي و فرهنگي دستخوش تغييراتي قرار گرفت و داراي نقش فرهنگي و معاني نمادين شد. در تبيين معاني آن، مي‌توان ارزش‌هاي خاص فرهنگي هر ملتي را در بافت‌هاي گوناگون اجتماعي مشاهده كرد. بدين ترتيب امكان تكثير معنا در نظام پوشاك با وجود خوانش‌هاي متفاوت مخاطبان در جريان گفتمان‌هاي متعدد فراهم مي?گردد. هدف اصلي اين مقاله بيان عوامل موثر در معناسازي لباس - به?مفهوم عام - مي‌باشد كه تحت تاثير پديده‌هاي جهاني‌سازي، فرهنگ، مذهب، نهادهاي اجتماعي، رسانه، اقتصاد و سياست است. بدين منظور با بررسي برخي از كتاب‌هاي نشانه‌شناسي و نظرات مطروحه پيرامون نظام پوشاك، عوامل موثر در انتخاب لباس از جنبه فردي و اجتماعي ارايه مي‌گردد. پرسش اساسي، چگونگي درك پوشاك توسط مخاطب در بافت‌هاي متعدد اجتماعي و با توجه به تجربيات شخصي اوست. بنابراين نگارنده، مفهوم لباس را (به?ويژه لباس ايراني) به?مثابه متني در نظر گرفته كه داراي يك فرمِ بياني واحد نيست و معناي آن تحت عوامل گوناگون متغير مي‌شود كه اين نظر، هم?سو با مفهوم تكثر معنا در رويكرد پساساختگرايان (به?ويژه رولان بارت) است. نتايج حاصله نشان مي‌دهد كه شكل‌هاي متعدد البسه توسط صنعت مد، معاني متعدد را رقم مي‌زند. هم?چنين ايديولوژي شخصي و گفتمان ديني جامعه نيز سبب معناسازي در لباس مي‌گردد. البته نقش نهادهاي فرهنگي و آموزشي در جامعه و نيز قدرت اقتصادي و سياسي نيز از جمله عوامل موثر در معناسازي البسه مي‌باشد.
چكيده لاتين :
Clothing has been one of the essential necessities of human being and it is a powerful communicative tool. Due to the cultural diversity of different nations and races, different sorts of dresses are prevalent in various nations and people. In addition, differen treligions cause the development of various dresses which represent a part of their identity. Clothing system is provided by the expansion of societies, formation of beliefs, different social and cultural activities. In this paper, we try to express that clothing system has passed different transformations and accepted cultural rule and symbolic meanings. In explaining its meanings, the specific cultural values of each and every nation can be observed in different social contexts. Therefore, the possibility of meaning multiplication in clothing
system is provided, in spite of different readings of audiences in various discourses.The main goal of this paper is to express the factors active in the meaning-formation of clothes –in general- which are under the influence of phenomena like globalization, culture, religion, social organizations, media, economy and politics. The fundamental question is how different audiences apprehend clothing in different contexts and with regard to their personal experiences. Hence, the author has considered the concept of clothing
(in particular, Iranian dress) as a text which lacks a single expressive form and its meaning varies under different factors and this view is in conformity with the concept of multiplication of meaning in poststructuralist approaches (especially Barthes’ approach). According to poststructuralist viewpoint, every text is created inside its discourse and so never stops. In this regard, Barthes equates clothing system with a text which takes different meanings in different social and cultural discourses. Thus, the emergence of different sorts of clothing causes the expansion of meaning. Moreover, the clothing fashion industry itself is in search of recreation of different meanings in this area. The acceptable values for every individual as well as personal ideology and religious discourse cause different types of meanings. Different kinds of religious, occupational and customary effects cause clothing transformations. The role of social organizations, including family and educational institutions, which act to expand the local or foreign culture, is also very important in this regard. The economical power of individuals and social forces is also effective in meaningfulness of clothing. Policy of Iranian government is also effective in developing special kinds of clothing and related meanings.
