تاثير منسوجات ايران دوران آل بويه و سلجوقي بر اسپانياي اسلامي (مطالعه موردي: منسوجات دوران مرابطون و موحدون)

Impact of Persian Textiles of Buyid and Seljuk Eras on Islamic Spain Textiles (Case Study: Almoravids & Almoheds Periods

فتوحات مسلمانان در دوره اموي، زمينه ساز ورود اسلام به اسپانيا و دگرگوني فرهنگ و هنر آندلس، به ويژه منسوجات اين دوران، از منظر طراحي نقوش بود. برخي محققان، منسوجات اسپانياي اسلامي را تداوم سنت طراحي منسوجات ايران ساساني مي دانند؛ اما پژوهش حاضر بر بنياد اين فرضيه شكل گرفته است كه در منسوجات اندلس، به ويژه در دوران حكمراني مرابطون و موحدون، شواهدي از نوآوري هاي منسوجات دوران هم عصر آنها، حكومت هاي آل بويه و سلجوقي كه خود تداوم سنت ساساني محسوب مي شوند، قابل مشاهده است. بنابراين، هدف پژوهش حاضر، كشف دلايل و ميزان اين تاثيرپذيري از طريق بررسي مستندات تاريخي، مقايسه نقوش و تركيب بندي شواهد منسوجات دو تمدن به منظور بررسي فرضيه مزبور است. نتايج پژوهش، نشانگر نقش تجارت در اين زمينه و تاثيرپذيري منسوجات مرابطون از نقش مايه هاي انساني، حيواني، پرندگان و نمادهاي عقاب دو سر، درخت زندگي و تركيب بندي مداليون هاي حاشيه دار منسوجات آل بويه است. استفاده از نقوش هندسي، ستاره هشت پر، لوزي و چليپا نيز مي تواند نشانگر تاثيرپذيري محدود موحدون از منسوجات سلجوقي باشد. كاهش تاثير در دوره موحدون را بايد نتيجه توجه حاكمان مُوحِد به ساده زيستي، طرد نقوش جانداران، تمايل به نقوش هندسي تزيينات معماري، كاهش واردات ناشي از پيشرفت صنعت نساجي اندلس و تبديل آن به قطب نساجي اروپا دانست.

Al-Andalus also known as Muslim Spain or Islamic Iberia، generally describes parts of the Iberian Peninsula governed by Muslims at times between 711 and 1492.As a political domain، it successively constituted as province of the Umayyad Caliphate، Umayyad Emirate and Caliphate of Córdoba، Taifa kingdoms، Almoravids، Almohads and Marinids. Under these kingdoms led to a rise in cultural، Industrial، Artistic progress and became the most Imporatant Europe scientific center during Middle-Ages. Many beleves Fashion speeded in Iclamic spain Courts by the Genius of one Man، Ziryab، Who revolutionized the court at Córdoba and made it the stylistic capital of its time. After Umayyad Caliphate، the independent Caliphate of Córdoba focused on textile manufacturing as an important things for court precious property and trading stuff one of the most important progress was textile manufacturing and sericulture makes Al-Andulus the pioneer of European silk textiles. Silk industry flourished during Almoravids and Almohads dynasties and most desired those weaving textiles، Silk dress and vivacious curtains traded between Christian countries in central Europe. Most researchers believe that Al-Andulus textiles Most seen as continuity of Eastern textile design tradition especially Iran during Sassanid Period. It means that all similar motifs and compositions derived from this clothes and evolved in various Islamic territories separately. But this research presumes that Some of Al-Andalus textile motives and pattern repeats of Almoravids and Almohads dynasties have witnesses of some contemporary Iranian reign’s textile design innovations especially Buyid and Seljuk Textiles that both of them are the continuity of Sassanid textile design tradition. Therefore، this research tries to show these similarities through historical documents، comparative analysis of remainded textiles of these dynasties from design point of view، to investigate the reasoning behind these resemblance and showing he similar aspects of these textiles. Previous Researcher papers and Historical documents through Historians like al-Maqqari (1578–1632) and textile remains in various Museums especially Cleveland Art Museum offered precious information to measuring presume theory and improve it. Results show that trading over Mediterranean Sea between iran and Islamic Spain specially during Almoravids dynasty that had been imported silk clothes from Persian territories for courtiers usage and imitated them in local workshops with similar names as Dibaj، Isfahani، Jorjani، etc. that shows the cultural dominant of Persian textile design culture in Islamic Spain manufacturing places and their literature. From design view، depicting Human Figure، Animals and Buirds and Persian symbols as Tree of Life، two headed eagle، man catching two animals in repetitive roundels named Medallion، equally attention to positive and negative complement spaces in design of Buyid Textiles can be seen in Almoravids textiles and we can see representation of Seljuk textiles as geometrical Patterns، eight-pointed stars، lozenge and crosses in late Almohed Dynasty textiles. Probably، the less impact of Persian textiles during Almohed dynesty can infer as the result of religious beliefs of Almohed governers in relationship between virtue and simplicity in Life and reducing textile importations due Spain progress in sericulture and silk weaving that became them Europe's textile manufacturing Pole.